Foundations and Grading

Swales have been provided where required in drainage areas along property lines or in approximately the same location that natural drainage crossed your property before construction. Typically, a homesite will receive water from and/or pass water onto other homesites. For this reason, changes in grade made after you move in often affect homes or property next to or near your home.

It is important that you do not stop or change the flow of surface water when landscaping, or constructing anything (patios, decorative walls, etc.) on your property. Keep swales properly seeded with grass so they do not erode.

Warning: Rototilling your homesite can often significantly change drainage swales. If you must rototill, you should only move parallel to swales, rather than across them. Drainage swales can also be changed by erosion if you do not promptly install landscaping.

Deep saturation and/or ponding of water in landscaped areas, particularly in the vicinity of the house, should be avoided. Sprinklers should not spray onto the walls of the house.

It is important that you finish your rear yard landscaping immediately after you move in. You must install your landscaping within one year from closing (This may vary per community, please verify the time frame in your community in your communities CC&Rs). Doing so will help solidify your soil and reduce surface water runoff and erosion. If you do not install landscaping right away, you are still responsible for correcting the effect of natural erosion on the grade of your home.

Any change in grading may affect the proper drainage pattern and allow surface water to puddle or saturate the ground at or near the foundation, which could cause damage to the structure. Some soils are highly expansive and may swell or shrink when changing from a moist to a dry condition. It is important to maintain uniform moisture conditions in the soil around your home. If this is not done, one portion of your foundation will move more than other portions.

Warning: Changes in grade will invalidate your Limited Warranty. Be sure changes do not affect the grade and swales to ensure proper drainage.

To minimize varying moisture that may affect your house, we recommend the following:

Drainage

Maintain drainage patterns and swales to keep water draining away from your foundation. Swales or drainage ditches are primarily provided to ensure that water drains away from your home. Sometimes these swales are accidentally filled in by homeowners or become filled by soil erosion. If that happens, please clear them out. These swales must be kept clean and clear. Even if you do not install landscaping, you are still responsible to correct the effects of natural erosion on the grade of your homesite.

Soil Expansion

Sometimes homeowners plant heavily around patios with little or no planting on the side yards. In that case, the soil around the patio may be heavily watered while other parts of the yard receive little or no water. This can create unequal soil expansion, which may result in potential wall and concrete cracking.

Soil Moisture

Another way homeowners sometimes create unequal soil moisture conditions around their foundation is by creating water traps. Often they do this by installing additional concrete walks, patios, borders, landscape planting areas or flower bed edging. You should take into consideration how water will drain from your home before making any modifications or additions.

Block Wall or Slump Stone Fences and Partitions

Walls, fences and partitions that may have been installed on your property have been professionally engineered and built according to all required building specifications at the time they were constructed. Modifications could jeopardize the integrity of the walls, which could lead to their eventual failure. Therefore, we recommend not modifying these structures.

If you choose to add a hot tub, swimming pool, or other additions, it is your responsibility to meet all health, building permit, and other safety requirements of the local jurisdiction, in addition to seeking approval from the owners association.

Concrete and Garage Slabs

Garage slabs and all concrete structures are susceptible to cracks. By maintaining good drainage on your home-site, you protect your home's foundation and the concrete flatwork (walks, driveways, garage floor, steps, patio, porch, sidewalks, etc.). The concrete used around your home was mixed to industry standards and applied by professionals. In anticipation of normal stress, we have provided for contraction and expansion to minimize and control cracking, where needed, by installing "joints" in the seams.

Since non-structural concrete (concrete without a foundation) is a rigid material placed over soil, (a non-rigid material), small cracks and minor surface variations are inevitable, but they do not reduce the concrete's serviceability. You should expect it to last indefinitely, with a few precautions. Minor cracks with no significant vertical or horizontal displacement do not require repair or replacement. These types of cracks are not covered under your Limited Warranty.

Concrete walks and patios may rise and fall due to freezing and thawing of the soils in which they are constructed. This is also a normal condition and does not require correction. Cracks may also develop as a result of seasonal movement. Caulking the cracks and sealing the concrete surface are suggested corrections and are considered normal homeowner maintenance. Some minor regrading of the areas adjacent to your concrete walkways may also be required.

Concrete driveways are not designed to withstand the weight of heavy trucks such as moving vans or concrete trucks. To protect yours, do not allow heavy trucks on it.

Cleaning Concrete

We recommend a good sweeping to clean the exterior concrete. Avoid washing exterior concrete slabs with cold water from an outside faucet when temperatures are high and the sun has been shining on the concrete. The abrupt change in temperature can damage the surface bond of the concrete. If washing is necessary, do so when temperatures are moderate.

Repeated cleaning of the garage floor by hosing can increase the soil movement below it, by allowing water to penetrate the porous material of concrete and any existing cracks. Periodic removal of grease and oil will extend the life of the concrete. Some chemicals, such as those used for ice removal, may cause decay of the cement surface and will expose the stone beneath. These products should be avoided whenever possible. Hardware and lumber stores sell a variety of products for this purpose. Some can damage grass, shrubs and the environment. Read and follow their labels carefully.

If you spill oil on a concrete surface, you may try using dishwashing detergent on the spot, brushing gently and then washing the spot using low water pressure from a garden hose. Dishwashing soap typically works well for this purpose.

Warning: Don't use de-icing salts or chemicals on any concrete surface.

Your driveway, sidewalk, and garage floor can also be damaged by salt solutions applied to the street and highways during winter months. Salt residue can be picked up on the undercarriage of vehicles and while parked, dripped onto the concrete surfaces of the driveway or garage floor. This may eventually cause scaling and pitting of exposed concrete surfaces. There are several precautions you can take to minimize this problem include checking drainage from the area to ensure that salted water is not trapped on concrete surfaces by grass, landscaping or other obstructions along the driveway edges. Additionally, hosing-down exposed concrete surfaces as soon as possible will prolong their life.

Crawl Space

The crawl space is the open area between the foundation walls, floor joists of the first floor, and the ground of a home that does not have a basement. All crawl spaces are ventilated to help evaporate atmospheric moisture and to prevent mildew. We cover the dirt of the crawl space with a moisture barrier, called Visqueen, designed to keep any moisture away from wood framing products.

Dampness under the Visqueen is common, even though the crawl space is graded to allow any ground water or seepage to exit through a positive drain. If there is ever standing water below the barrier, peel back the Visqueen and dig a trench from the standing water to the positive drain. Correctly installing landscaping also helps prevent excessive amounts of water from entering crawl spaces.

In order to protect your home from mildew, it is important that the vapor barrier is kept in good repair and the crawl vents are unobstructed. Your crawl space is not intended to be a storage area.

Items placed in the crawl space will hold moisture above the moisture barrier and can cause future damage.

Grounds

Proper care of the grounds around your home will add to the beauty of your home while protecting the structure of the house. Your homesite layout was designed and installed to provide proper drainage away from the building. If you change the drainage pattern, be sure to maintain the proper drainage slope away from the house.

Normal settling may occur around the house and in utility ditches, so fill any depressions with dirt. Keep the fill below the top of the foundation, at least 6" from the siding, to prevent water from entering the joint and possibly causing wood decay or water leaking into the house.

Use local resources to research and plan landscaping to take advantage of the best plants for this area. Proper planning will pay off in the long run and will help you develop your outdoor space to become an extension of your indoor living areas. For best results, take a long-range view.

Landscaping and Improvements

Good lawns begin with proper and thorough planning. A key concern when planning your lawn or landscaped area is how the landscaping may affect homesite drainage. It is your responsibility to obtain owner's association approval and any necessary building permits from the local jurisdiction.

Care of Trees and Shrubs

The first year is a crucial time for newly transplanted trees and plants. You must take care to water them deeply to keep the soil moist daily during warm, dry months.

Once plants are established, water thoroughly and frequently in the dry season. Roots develop and grow in the presence of water, air and nutrients. Except for naturally shallow-rooted plants (rhododendrons and azaleas, for example), plants will root throughout the depth at which these essentials are found. Light, shallow watering is not good, because it keeps the roots near the surface, and exposes plants to severe damage in hot weather.

Fertilizing Lawns

The 3 major elements of a complete fertilizer are nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus:

• Nitrogen – The element needed most by your lawn. It promotes root and blade growth and makes the grass a healthy green color; a lawn will grow slowly and become yellowish without enough nitrogen.
• Potassium – It is the second most important element. It strengthens the grass and helps it withstand stress associated with foot traffic and periods of drought.
• Phosphorus – It helps the early formation and growth of roots; new lawns require more phosphorus. Established lawns need very little, as it does not flush from soil as readily as nitrogen.

The series of numbers on a fertilizer bag represents the percentage, by weight, of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in the bag. A ratio of 16-4-8 represents 16% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, 8% potassium and is recommended for established lawns.

Fertilizer with a ratio of 3-1-2 in its formula, such as 21-7-14 or 15-5-10 is also suitable for Northwest lawns. Lawns should be fertilized every 6 – 8 weeks from February through November. An application of lime each year in November is helpful in balancing the acidity level prevalent in Northwest soils. Do not use weed or moss killers on your new lawn for a period of one year.

Fertilizing Shrubs and Trees

Feed plants twice a year with appropriate fertilizer in March and November. Air and water will penetrate planting beds more easily with weekly weeding and raking of beds. The fertilization needs of a landscape plant will vary according to species, soil type, pH, amount of rain, etc. Read directions thoroughly and determine plant needs. Recommended: Democote 14- 14-14. If a tree is healthy and vigorous, it may only need to be fertilized every other year. A 3-1-1 ratio fertilizer is recommended. The most efficient time to fertilize is early spring, yet fertilizer may be applied in late fall and winter.

Mowing Tips

A lawn that is mowed correctly appears lush and healthy, and resists weeds, insects and disease. A lawn mowed infrequently will remove too many grass blades at one time and result in a lawn that looks thin and uneven. New sod should not be mowed until rooted well into the soil. If you grab the lawn and pull up on it easily, it should not give way and pull up from the soil. A lawn may take up to 2 weeks to root sufficiently for mowing, and up to 8 weeks during dormant times.

For Best Results:

• After your lawn is established, mow at a height of approximately 1-1/2” to 2-1/2.”
• Do not cut wet grass. The grass blades may not be standing up straight and this can cause an uneven cut. Mowing a wet lawn can also lead to soil compaction.
• Remove clippings, as this will give grass a better chance to spread and fill in.
• Alternate mowing patterns. Mowing the same direction all the time can cause wear patterns and also lead to soil compaction.

Watering (in General)

It is common for sod to turn brown shortly after being laid due to transplant shock. If watered routinely, this sod will revive itself. Newly laid sod must be watered daily to aid rooting.

A new sod lawn should be kept moist at all times during the initial 2-weeks. On a hot summer day, it may be necessary to water 3 – 4 times a day for 15 – 30 minutes each time; on a cool dry day, 1 – 2 times for 15 – 30 minutes is required. If it rains, no watering may be needed. After this period, the lawn should be watered every 1 or 2 days during warm, dry months.

Water during daylight hours. Morning is the best time because cool morning air has more moisture and will help prevent water from evaporating. Avoid late evening watering, as wet or damp lawns at night are more susceptible to fungus and disease problems.

Sandy soils dry out faster and need water more frequently, while soils with high clay content tend to dry slower but need more water to penetrate to the desired depth. With clay soils, it may be necessary to water in intervals to avoid wasteful runoff until the desired amount of water has been applied.

Once a lawn becomes established, it needs approximately 1 inch of water once a week to maintain a healthy appearance. You can determine how long to leave sprinklers running by making a few simple calculations. One inch of rain will penetrate about 12" in sandy soil, about 7" in loam, and about 4 – 5" in clay. Therefore, if you want to water to a depth of 12", you would need approximately 1" of "rain" in sandy soil and 2-1/2" in clay.

To find out how long it takes your sprinkler to produce 1" of moisture, place a number of shallow containers at regular intervals in a line running out from the sprinkler. Turn on the water and note the time it takes to fill the containers to 1". When you know how long it takes your sprinkler to discharge 1" of water, multiply that time by the number of inches you want. The result equals the length of time to leave the sprinklers on.

Weed Control

For information on insect, weed, or other controls for maintaining healthy landscaping, we recommend that you rely on a maintenance firm for service or the County Agricultural Extension Agent.